Who was Nirmal Purja? Mountaineering icon and 14 Peaks star dies in Broad Peak avalanche at 43

Investitures 2022: Sir David Attenborough Among Recipients - Source: Getty
Investitures 2022: Sir David Attenborough Among Recipients - Source: Getty

Nirmal Purja, the celebrated climber featured in the Netflix documentary 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible, has died after an avalanche struck Broad Peak on the Pakistan-China border.

The record-breaking British-Nepali mountain climber, who was also known as Nimsdai, was born on July 25, 1983, in a small village in Nepal's Myagdi district. In his 2021 interview with National Geographic, Nirmal Purja shared:

"We came from a really poor family. As a kid, I remember I didn't even have flip-flops."
Nepalese Mountaineering Team Scaled K2 Receive Hero's Welcome - Source: Getty
Nepalese Mountaineering Team Scaled K2 Receive Hero's Welcome - Source: Getty

This was because his parents' marriage was frowned upon in their village. They came from different caste systems, as his father was a Gurkha soldier, and his mother came from a farming background, resulting in their family being cut off financially and socially.

Nirmal Purja's three much older brothers, who also became Gurkha soldiers, funded his attendance at the English-speaking boarding school, where he became proficient in kick-boxing.

Later, he took up postgraduate studies at Loughborough University in security management.

In 2003, before his mountaineering career, Nirmal Purja was a former elite soldier and served the British Army's Brigade of Gurkhas at age 18. He became the first Gurkha to serve in the elite UK Special Forces, including the Special Boat Service (SBS), or the special forces unit of the Royal Navy.

He had been such an important earning member of his family during his stay in the army that he had described his pension as "life changing."

Record Holding Mountain Climbers Gets Rousing Welcome Upon Arrival Back Home - Source: Getty
Record Holding Mountain Climbers Gets Rousing Welcome Upon Arrival Back Home - Source: Getty

In 2018, he stepped away from his career in the SBS to focus solely on mountaineering.

In the very next year, he achieved a phenomenal feat by scaling all 14 peaks of the world that are over 8,000 meters in height within six months and six days.

The climbing legend even conquered the trio of peaks, Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu one after another within 48 hours.

In 2022, Nirmal Purja led the first-ever winter ascent to K2 along with nine more climbers from Nepal.

Purja founded Elite Exped in 2017, an expedition organization which promotes the cause of giving more international recognition to Nepalese and Sherpa mountaineers.

This was also the same platform which confirmed his death on July 30, 2026, five days after his 43rd birthday.


Nirmal Purja dies: Elite mountaineering organization mourns loss

In a statement shared on social media, the organization announced the heartbreaking news.

"It is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Mirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak. We have also received confirmation that other members of the expedition sadly did not survive."

According to local authorities, Purja's climbing team started their ascent on Wednesday and lost contact on Thursday morning. However, the rescue mission has been initiated on the very next day.

Officials said the avalanche claimed the lives of 10 climbers. These victims consisted of six Nepalese nationals and four foreigners, including the American mountaineer Sarah Mallory Geis.

Further in the press statement, they described Purja as a very respected mountaineer and that his accomplishments have inspired countless people to pursue ambitious goals.

"The world has lost one of mountaineering's greatest climbers; a leader who inspired millions through courage, humility, and unwavering belief that human potential is far greater than we often imagine. More than his extraordinary achievements, he wanted to show the world what was possible when you dared to dream bigger, believed in yourself, and refused to accept limitations."

Nirmal Purja is survived by his wife, Suchi Purja, and their young daughter.

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Edited by Gladys Altamarino