"You can smell him through the TV": Slow Horses designer reveals "biggest compliment" he got over Jackson Lamb's look

Gary Oldman in Slow Horses Season 5 (Image via YouTube/@Apple TV)
Gary Oldman in Slow Horses Season 5 (Image via YouTube/@Apple TV)

Slow Horses costume designer Guy Speranza reportedly discussed the design choices behind each character in his final season. According to Forbes, the designer revealed that the 'biggest compliment' he had ever received was that the viewers could almost smell Jackson Lamb through the TV. Speranza said,

"The biggest compliment I’ve ever had is like, you can smell him through the TV."

Speranza described Lamb as a disgusting and untidy person and added that people similar to Lamb still exist today, who wear suits and ties to look smart. Speranza also explained that the books described Lamb as someone who had been dragged backwards through a charity shop.

The costume designer further added that Gary Oldman embraced the concept, and it helped him to build that required look. Speranza also pointed out that Lamb's shoes appeared unusual and out of place, as if the character had simply picked them because he liked them, even though they didn't match the rest of the outfit.

Continue reading more about the story.


Slow Horses costume design story: Guy Speranza revealed 'biggest compliment' he got over Jackson Lamb's look

Guy Speranza was the costume designer of Gary Oldman in Slow Horses (Image via YouTube/@Apple TV)
Guy Speranza was the costume designer of Gary Oldman in Slow Horses (Image via YouTube/@Apple TV)

The costume designer of Slow Horses, Guy Speranza, revealed to Forbes that he got the 'biggest compliment' over Jackson Lamb's appearance. The compliment he described was,

"You can smell him through the TV."

The designer further pointed out that Gary Oldman played Lamb in a very unpleasant way. According to Speranza, Lamb was a dishevelled person, dressed in a suit and tie to look smart. Speranza said that people like Lamb still exist in today's society.

Speranza shared that Lamb was described in the book as someone who had been dragged backwards through a charity shop. Speranza said that he used that book description as a guide for the costume. The designer recalled Gary's costume selection moment and revealed,

"It was Gary kind of taking it on and it just worked. Even the shoes are a bit odd, I think he’s just picked them up and he thought, ‘I like these,’ when they’re completely opposite to the rest of the costume."

Speranza recalled that Gary didn't want to change suits and preferred wearing the same one throughout. Speranza explained that this approach worked even better because the suit gradually took shape on his body and made the character's look feel more natural and authentic.


Slow Horses costume design story: Speranza opened up about the costume design process for Gary Oldman

While speaking to Forbes, Speranza opened up about the costume design process for Gary Oldman and explained that the team always had three or four shirts of different styles for each episode. The designer shared,

"We always had three or four shirts for each episode, different shirts, always the same, in three slightly different styles."

Speranza explained that the Slow Horses costume design team tested several ties before settling on the right look. He recalled that the team had to adjust each tie to make it slightly thinner so that it would better suit Oldman's small frame. He said that every suit underwent an extensive ageing process, starting with fabric chosen for its ability to wrinkle easily and look as though the character had slept in it.

As per the designer, the costumes were repeatedly treated to create a worn and neglected appearance. The team washed, burned, torched, dyed, dipped, and distressed the fabric until it looked naturally aged. The costume designer further noted that every piece of clothing went through the same process to accomplish a consistent look. The team prepared two rails, having six identical costumes, and all were carefully broken down to match Lamb's untidy style.


Follow Soap Central for more updates on Slow Horses.

Edited by Aratrika Baidya